Auto parts: new and used parts for your car
Engines, body panels, lights, tires and consumables — from breakers and owners. Search by OEM number, ask for photos of the actual part in chat.
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Good to know
The used-parts market runs on breakers: crashed cars are parted out, and that's how body panels, lights and interior pieces reach listings at 20–40% of new price. For cars past 10 years old, breakers are often the only source of original parts — the maker no longer produces them. Consumables (filters, pads, oils) are better bought new: the price gap is small and the counterfeit risk is high.
Selling parts? Identification is everything: an OEM number in the title or photos makes the listing findable, while 'bumper for a Passat' drowns among hundreds alike. State the donor car (year, engine, trim) and be ready for 'will it fit...' questions — buyers rarely know part numbers. Photos of the actual part from all sides are mandatory: stock images in this category are a scammer's tell.
Questions & answers
How do I avoid buying the wrong part?
Search by the OEM part number, not the name: it's stamped on the part itself or found by VIN in catalogs. The same car model can use different parts depending on year and trim.
Used original or new aftermarket?
Body panels, glass and interior are fine used from a breaker. Brakes, suspension and anything safety-related — only new: quality aftermarket (Bosch, TRW, Sachs) matches the original.
What should I ask about a used engine?
Donor car mileage, a video of it running before removal, compression per cylinder, and whether there's an install warranty. Reputable breakers give 14–30 days to test with returns.
Original, aftermarket or used: how do I choose by part?
The rule is simple: anything that brakes, steers or holds — new (original or quality aftermarket). Body panels, glass, lights, interior — fine used from a breaker. Electronics (modules, sensors) only with a return option: testing them before installation is nearly impossible.
How do I check part compatibility without a VIN catalog?
Photograph the number on your old part — that's the most precise reference. Online catalogs (by VIN or make/year) show interchangeable numbers. When unsure, ask about the donor car: year, engine size, body type — one mismatch is reason enough to double-check.
Used tires: when is it fine and when is it dangerous?
Tread above 5 mm and age under 5 years (DOT code on the sidewall) is a working half-price option. Tires older than 7 years are unsafe regardless of tread: the compound hardens. Check sidewalls for bulges and patches — either one means walk away.